Thursday, 15 February 2007

A nine to fiver's lot

This is a reply I posted on Dobbin's blog http://dobbinwondermule.blogspot.com/ . I thought I might as well stick it up here too given that it took long enought to write. It's written in response to Dob's musings about the difference in performance between full time climbers and full time workers:

I tend to agree that training around work is a serious limiting factor unless you have very flexible work with low hours. Being a full timer or on an extended trip means you can climb often, when you feel energised and when conditions are good, rather than trying to cram five days worth of training into two shortish high intensity evening sessions, then do as much as the weather allows on the weekend.

My year away did result in a personal jump in standards (not sure i'd class as great!). The more time you spend climbing the more time on rock your body learns to take. Once you can tolerate a higher volume you can effectively do more training
[ By training I mean all climbing which acts to improve a persons climbing ability] per week so you improve past your normal plateau. As climbing is more of a constant pressure on your system rather than a short spike of activity every couple of days you don't risk injury by pulling harder, as much as you do by increasing intensity without upping the volume. Nine to fivers basically have to binge climb in the time available.

On top of that you have more chance to travel and take advantage of conditions so you get super psyched for things you wouldn't risk wasted effort on as weekend efforts. I think this motivation boost is almost, if not as important, as the physical side. Climbing around a full time job is a delicate balance and I personally tend to avoid projecting boulder probs which might take ages without certain success. Too many confounding factors mean you could just end up empty handed, frustrated and demotivated. As a result I pretty much stick to projects I can do in day.

On the upside things are much more predictable as far as sport climbing goes. Due to crags being dry in the rain and daylight allowing after work sessions during the summer months, it is actually worth putting in the effort on projects. I think weekenders can compete on a slightly more even playing field when it comes to bolt clipping.

Anyway, rambling aside, I reckon you'd benefit by and nodoubt really enjoy a big trip. Do it asap if at all possible before you get anymore rooted in place my mortages, babies, job etc. You're a young chap with the sort of job that I imagine you could easily take a chunk of time out of without any negative consequence. Do it, do it, do it. HM can be your roady!

Weekenders on tour

7 comments:

dobbin said...

Good post dude. Nice picture of the boy band too. Will discuss further this eve i suspect.

lorenzo said...

hey its quite funny reading this just after deciding to get back to work instead of being at home all day...

james said...

like who are those guys? they could come to the foundry flex off!

bonjoy said...

Hey Lorenzo (Nibile?), met a chap down the wall called Giovani last week. Strong boulderer lives not too far from Meschia, is this anyone you know?

lorenzo said...

hey its nibile here!!!
maybe its the same giovanni that lives here in siena, he was in the peak last week, and has lived in leeds for a couple of years.
how did he look like? pale with a beard and long black hair? or very muscular with curly hair? the latter being a very strong boulderer.

bonjoy said...

Muscular with short curly hair. He was visiting his girlfriend in York and was coming to the UK for a month some time in March. I gave him my number so he had someone to show him the local crags.

lorenzo said...

yes i know him, hes from rome!!!
hes no stick insect is he!!!