Thursday, 5 November 2009

Last of the Summer Lime

There goes another block of six days off (soz Dobbin). The weather was a right mixed bag and the climbing was much the same with only three good days of climbing possible and a varied hodgepodge of climbing being squeezed into the good bits.

Thurs – A very lack lustre day out at Gardom’s on very damp scrittly green rock with Mr Heason. Not really the best choice of crag but I dare say most places would have been a bit gack. Warmed up doing a new line up the RHS of the Moyer’s Buttress arete. The damp, scrittle and lack of easier warm up meant I got super pumped and the guess of E3 5c might turn out to be over generous. It’s called Imperfect Way, starting up Perfect Day then bearing left to the arete and staying on the RHS till almost the top where a big footer on the arete makes it contrived not to finish up the front. We then spent effort throwing ourselves at a very wet Mickey Finn. Should have saved it for a dry day as it’s felt like it would normally be pretty steady for E6, but we were there and nothing better to do. Water and slopers do not go well together.

Fri – Friday was a better day. Warmed up with some bouldering at Millstone with Caff and Ryan, both of whom are living local now which is good news for the midweek scene. They both did an even more direct version of Green Death super direct, which avoided the lurch left with some more tenuous smearing. It looked a grade harder than the normal which would make it 7b+ I guess. Ryan also managed (after I’d left) to do a project I spied on the Embankment slab, about 4m left of Time for Tea, up a deadend line of peg scars to a big throw for a two finger pocket then a ledge. I think 7b+ was mentioned but no name as yet.

Not wanting to get involved in the Scritto’s scene I quickly legged it over to meet Cofe at Bamford. Did some more warmy up stuff then went to have a go at a lovely little project I’d spotted a week back, up the steep rippled wall left of Jasmin. It turned out to be as good as it looked giving a weird crimpy sequence with a kneescum, a cross under and a bit of a pop. I’m very pleased with this one. It’s called Rocky and is I think low end 7b. Here’s a couple of the pics Cofe got:

Sat – We were up at Fi’s mum’s in Holmfirth for the weekend so decided to head out on some Yorkshire Grit. It had been raining heavily in the night and Heptonstall looked like a good bet for quick drying rock, with not too big a drive. After forgetting to bring the guide we eventually found the crag and warmed up on the classic Thin Red Line. Then did the even more classic Willan’s monster Forked Lightning Crack, which was no pushover but not as hard as it looked. Next up was a peg protected E6 called A Step in the Light Green. This turned out to be pretty steady and really excellent. Managed to flash it after checking the pegs on abseil (they look fairly good). It’s a great route and well worth the visit. Finished off with a tricky Fawcett E4 finger crack Demerara. Top day out.

Sun – Manky weather so rested and went for a walk in some gale force winds.

Mon – Took someone out for a ‘guided’ mushroom hunting walk. Not a bad way to earn some extra pennies.

Tues – Met up with Caff and Ryan, with the rather optimist plan of heading to the Roaches. After a fair bit of driving around wet venues we eventually ended up at the Tor of all places. Not what I’d hoped for having pretty much written Lime off for the year. It was cold and hard to keep fingers warm but otherwise great nick. Al Murray(?) was doing everyone a favour and bolting Obscene Gesture, a good effort and long overdue IMO (many of the holds and one of the gear placements having broken meaning it never got done as a trad route). Caff and Ryan did Hot Flushings in a few goes after both putting in a good stab at the onsight. I was surprised to get up Call of Nature having not pulled on any lime since probably August. Bonus!