Friday, 28 September 2007

Wow two blogs in a week

Have been doing more of the same since the last post. Three more 8a and an 8a+, no flashes though. Feel like I ought to try and spending some time on something a bit harder now rather than just bagging quality volume. Will maybe try Botanics 8b+ or Espirit Rebeled 8b.
It´s getting cooler here now and the place is pretty quiet. Funny how everyone goes home just as the conditions get good. I guess folk don´t book holidays at this time due to the risk of rain and wet tufas.
The van has been excellent so far with no mechanical probs and all fittings working as hoped for. the solar panel has been very useful, meaning we can park up for ages without having to drive to charge batteries.
Will probably stay here for another week, maybe two(unless it craps out) then head on to Terradets via Alquezar and Riglos (for a couple of days each).

Monday, 24 September 2007


We ended up staying at Ceuse for about two weeks in total. Was keen to get down to Rodellar in good time to avoid a repeat of 2005 wet tufa disasters so headed to Spain in the first week of Sept.
Did lots of classic stuff in Ceuse, but didn´t really aquire the requisite stamina for anything particularly hard until the last few days. But did manage one 8a (Collonetes with bloc start) and flashed a 7c (Blanches Fesse).
The Ceuse stamina and general fitness from the walkin has proved pretty useful here though. My ultimate goal on this trip was to flash an 8a and i managed it last week. The route was one of the areas best - Corredor de Muerta, a massively steep 40m line (of mostly jugs) up the middle of a big yellow wave. I saw the line on our last trip in 2005 and have been wanting to do it ever since.
Other than that have onsighted a few 7c+s and lots of 7cs and 7b+s, almost all of them brilliant routes. I love this place.
Have been climbing a lot with Mr Mawson who has left now but had a great trip flashing or onsighting a fair few 8as and redpointing a couple of super classic 8bs.