Friday, 27 April 2007

All in the mind

After a couple of weeks feeling like the climbing is slipping, due in part to spending much time on the van, as well as various unplanned stuff interrupting what climbing time was available, I all of a sudden feel back on the up. Went out to 'the-place-of-which-we-must-not-speak' last night after feeling mediocre at Rubicon and managed my project of four session, The Hulk. Hurrah. It's funny how my perception of how it's all going can be almost instantly turned around by success on one problem. I think it's this pattern of motivation which generally leads me to avoid 'working' problems, as opposed to trying harder stuff sporadically and going for the one day ticks. I find it hard to believe that I'm climbing ok and making progress when no new probs are getting done for a few days. Maybe this ticking addiction gets in the way of bagging the bigger numbers.
As ever I'm torn between the going out and having as much fun as possible game and the working hard for rewarding longer term goals approach. Having experienced a little success with the latter I think I'll carry on with this for a while and hopefully that way use what climbing time I do have available to get some finger strength together for the big trip. Hmmmm, so what next, The Pinch, Tsunami.....?

But bouldering's for midweek at the mo, and Saturday the plan is to get back to Kilnsey. Had a play on Grooved Arete two weeks ago and was surprised how ok it felt considering it's endurancey nature. Brilliant climbing and I figure it's a good one to kick start the season. Reckon it'll take two-three more visits, but often guess wrong. Will be trying to redpointing tomorrow anyway, so you never know.


dobbin said...

The oldest and hardest question is whether to chase around doing loads within your grade range and get them done faster or to concentrate your efforts over a period of time on a bigger single goal. Do you go for the bar of gold or the bag of copper?

Lots of people get massively discouraged by the 'redpoint' approach (i.e. that of working a problem) and some claim that sieging it into submission is bringing it down to your level, which I suppose is true.

Sometimes though when you really are inspired by something its worth putting the effort in. I have really felt energized by achieving things I've set my heart on, they feel like they mean more to me than a flash of a problem which is 'no'but a fleetin thing'.

I suppose it depends what you go climbing for? I go because I want to see what the hardest thing I can do is and if I can do anything a little bit harder. I am motivated by numbers but I am not! what I mean is that the number corresponds to the difficulty and its that that inspires me - I want to climb the hardest thing possible, and I am happy for that to take some time. Each to their own eh?

Ryan said...

Hi Jon.
I have the same problem which you described - wanting to tick lots of routes that I can do quickly, or not getting anything done whilst repeatedly going back to the same crag (Gallery)for one route (Chasin) and doing the same crag warm ups and not getting anything new done. However when you do eventually get your big tick it feels worth it afterwards.
I am going to leave Chasin until after Bluies and Nowra so I can try to build up some power endurance to do the climb.
I think power endurance is hard to keep on a long trip (depending where you are climbing). My stamina seems ok tho. I could do with a woody board to 20 move circuits on repeatedly I think. Any suggestions Jon?
Your van looks ideal, and with all the modifications you plan it will be great for your trip. Are u running it on LPG?
Good work on the routes and boulders you have told me about and good luck on Grooved arete.
Would be nice to see more climbing pics on your blog too!

bonjoy said...

Good luck with Chasin, you'll get there soon I dare say.
If you have good stamina but having trouble with the PE it might be worth doing a bit of bouldering for your basic power. The easier the moves feel, the less PE you'll need. If you are close to doing Chasin it might just make the difference.
The van is Deisel. Diesel is cheap in europe and LPG is hard to find in Spain.
Will post some climing pics soon.

James said...

did you goose rev?

bonjoy said...

Close but no cigar. Got through the start and fell off going right out of the top of the groove. Decided to concentrate on getting the top bit wired for the rest of the day. I find one move really hideous on the upper bit and I still can't decide which way i'll do it. Eee well, back on Tues. You going there tues? Am stuck for a belay at the mo as Nige split a tip so won't be out.